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Ask the Trainer: I’m Worried About My Dog & Kids

Paris and John — Thu, 29 Jul 2010 18:58:37 +0000

We’ve got another great Ask the Trainer column from Colleen Safford from New York Walk & Train, named “Best of NY” by New York Magazine. Parents, don’t miss this column! Colleen is not just a dog lover and trainer but a conscientious mom as she tackles this difficult question:

I have a 3-year-old spayed Boxer/Shar pei mix that I adopted from a rescue three years ago. She was teased really bad by her previous owners children. I have three children and she loves them to death. However..she does not like their friends or strangers. She has nipped three times and then she finally drew blood the fourth time. I put her in a crate when other kids are here but this last time she bit a child who put her fingers through our fence to try and pet her. Please help!!

I am very sorry to hear this. I am tackling this question with heart. As a mommy and dog lover, I know how difficult it can be to manage children and dogs safely. It’s something that takes 24/7 diligence.

This is a very serious situation. Your dog’s last incident tells us that she feels her previous three warnings were not heard or respected.

Should she continue down this same path, it is likely that her reaction will only become stronger. She is trying very hard to tell everyone that she is very uncomfortable. So, it’s your job to be sure she feels she is being kept safe.

I am very happy to hear that you are using the crate. I am not sure where the crate is located, but I want to recommend that it is behind a closed door, and that all children understand that she is NOT to be disturbed while she is in there. This is her safe haven, quiet place and refuge from the kid tornado (haha).

Dog Body Language: I know you mention that she loves your own children, but please visit a website called www.doggonesafe.com. This organization helps teach children and adults to understand dog body language and the early warning signs of stress (lip licking, yawning etc) . We often miss them. Everyone in your home should be very well versed in dog body language.

Appropriate use of the crate:

1. While she is in there, she should have things to work on. She can eat her meals through enrichment or food stuffed toys like the Kong.

2. Teach her a “hop in” or “go to your room” command, where she learns to hop in the crate on her own (without be physically prompted or dragged by the collar)

3. She should be crated randomly each day, not just when children are there. This will help her feel more comfortable in there and not connect the crate directly with the presence of children.

4. ANTICIPATE when children are going to arrive. 5-10 minutes BEFORE their arrival, she should “hop in” her crate.

Yard/Fence: She must not be left in the yard on her own where people can approach the fence and reach at her. As she exhibited last time, she is not comfortable with people reach toward her. When you are outdoors with her, she should be on a long line where she can move about freely, but not so much that she can reach the fence. While you are out there, you should let her wander on her leash and then call her to come to you and reward her for doing so. In the case when people are passing your home, call her to you (before she sees them!) and give her a treat. Really work on her ability to stop what she is doing and COME to you.

Training: Working even on her most basic of obedience every day and reinforcing good behavior (with treats, toss of a toy, praise etc) can really help her confidence flourish. You should ask her to sit before giving her attention, come to you – just to check in and get a yummy treat or pet on the head, play fetch, but ask her to sit before you toss the toy each and every time.

I will also suggest that you work with a humane trainer (www.apdt.org) to help her with some of her child anxieties. Teaching her the presence of strange children is actually a really fun thing! You need to work with someone who is skilled though in behavior modification and does not use any correction based methods.

Exercise: This is something that I cannot emphasize enough. I know you are a busy mother of three, but this doggy really needs some good heart pumping exercise every day. Not a leisurely walk, but a nice game of fetch, off leash play etc. Hiring a buddy (dog walker) to get her that daily exercise is something I would highly recommend if you are unable with all the mommy duties to do this with her.

Never punish her: It is also very important that your dog is never punished for letting out a growl, lifting her lip, or barking at children. Doing so, only reinforces for her that things get bad when children are around; and further reminds her of why she doesn’t like them. Instead, realize that she is simply trying to tell people, “I need help. I feel a need to defend myself here.”

Rehoming: This is a difficult topic to address; particularly so in an open forum where people are sure to have strong opinion. When I work with families there are times where we need to discuss the possibility of finding a new home for a dog. A home where the dog will feel less anxious and those in the dog’s life will be safer.

A lot of the above advice is what trainers refer to as management. Management prevents behavior from being displayed and undesired habits from becoming stronger. The reality is however that management systems can fail (i.e. – kids let dog out of crate or go into the room). This is why training her to be comfortable around children is important.

I do NOT have enough information about your particular situation. This is certainly something that is NEVER taken lightly or without hours of developing a relationship with a family, the dog and getting a true sense of the full situation. The safety of the children and mental health of the dog are top priority. Please seek out a supportive and skilled trainer to work with you through this.

I am sending positive thoughts to your pup and your family.

Saving $ on Your Dog: Rebate Programs

Paris and John — Tue, 27 Jul 2010 18:23:24 +0000

We’re always on the lookout for ways to save money on our dog and cat supplies; we love the convenience of ordering online and just ran across another way to save on those online pet purchases.

Several online rebate programs offer you a percentage discount for each purchase and many of these programs feature numerous pet supply stores. For example, MrRebates.com presently offers over 2,000 cash back online stores including PETCO, 1800PetMeds.com. Similarly, Ebates.com offers rebates from over 1,200 online shops (pet-related shops are located under the “Home and Garden” category on the left side of the page). You’ll find coupons as well as cash back refunds on this site. Ebates includes Dog.com, Entirely Pets, Lands End, National Pet Pharmacy, Orvis, Pet Food Direct, PetCareRx, PETCO, PetSmart, PetStore.com, Target, Total Pet Supply, Walmart.com, 1800PetMeds, and more.

How much will your rebates be? That depends on the online store itself. Looking at these rebate companies, we’ve seen rebates ranging from 2 to 12 percent; many fall into the 4 to 6 percent range. Every bit helps!

Ask the Trainer: Dealing with Thunderstorms

Paris and John — Thu, 22 Jul 2010 17:37:12 +0000

We’ve got another great Ask the Dog Trainer column from Colleen Safford from New York Walk & Train, named “Best of NY” by New York Magazine. This is a really important question that we know that many of you have about your dogs (and one that we also have about our dog, Irie!)

My dog is terrified by thunderstorms. Is there anything I can do to train her to not be scared of thunderstorms? One thing I’m really, really worried about is a storm suddenly coming in when we’re on a walk.

My dog Luna suffers from noise and storm phobia. It’s something we have struggled with for nine years. There are certainly a number of things you can do, but depending on the severity, thunderstorm and noise phobia are something that can warrant discussing the use of pharmacological remedies. (Luna is on Xanax during storm days and fireworks weekends!) This information can often evoke a “Huff!? Are you kidding me,” response from owners. The truth however is that with moderate to severe cases, studies have shown medications are more helpful than training (desensitization and counter conditioning). It should also be noted that if left unaddressed, storm and general noise phobia will worsen with time.

Depending on your dog’s reaction, here are some things to try. If your dog is still showing signs of stress when using these methods, discussing the issue with a veterinarian (preferably a veterinarian behaviorist) is recommended. You need to pair thunderstorms with pleasurable activities, such as eating or engaging in games.

Check the weather. During storm season, your daily routine will include looking up the forecast first thing in the a.m. My homepage is weather.com during May-September. It’s easy!
Get into the habit of stuffing very enticing food stuffable toys and having them stocked and ready in the fridge (like Kong, Atomic Ball, Tricky Treat ball). Before you say, “but I don’t want my dog to get chubby,” you need to factor these mini meals into your dog’s daily ration of food.
Be proactive. You need to be ready and prepped BEFORE the weather changes (that includes when the starts to blow and the pressure changes etc.) Do not wait until the storms starts. Once a dog becomes anxious, it is hard for him to just relax again. Your goal is to make sure your dog doesn’t become stressed during this time.
Consider herbal remedies. Again, depending on the severity of the case, many clients have had success with using Melatonin and Rescue Remedy. These are herbal supplements and can be purchased over the counter at both human and pet specific stores. You cannot overmedicate with these.
Invest in a pressure wrap like Thundershirt. Honestly, I am not sure exactly why they work, but use pressure wraps is used with numerous to treat anxiety. Humans tightly swaddle our newborns, the cattle industry uses them for examinations, they are used more and more in the treatment of autism.

In terms of your fear that a storm will hit while you’re out and about, I would recommend choosing your outings very wisely at this time. Avoid being out during a possible storm’s approach AND be sure your dog is wearing very safe equipment, such as a non-slip martingale collar.

Warm wags!

Colleen

Do you have a dog training or behavior question for Colleen Safford? Please submit your question using our submit a question contact form (or if you have any problems with the form, just drop us a line at editors AT dogtipper.com and we’ll forward your question to Colleen.) Questions will be answered online in this column and not individually. (See more articles by and about Colleen Safford on DogTipper.)

Ask Dr. Diane: My New Rescue Isn’t Socialized

Paris and John — Sun, 18 Jul 2010 20:37:26 +0000

I just adopted a mixed breed dog about five years old; I don’t think he has been very well socialized. He gets along well with our family but does not like other people. He growls at the meter readers and any non-family members that come over. I am worried a little about him biting someone and want him to be happy when other people come over. What should I do when introducing him to new people?

There are some dogs, like people, who, for many different reasons, are shy, fearful or aggressive. They do not enjoy or easily accommodate the presence of strangers. It is best to provide your dog with obedience training that include and incorporate basic commands such as COME, SIT, STAY, HEEL, etc. Obedience training is usually readily available and accessible to dog owners. Consult your vet and/or friends or neighbors who have animals that have received obedience training. Also, I would suggest that you take your pet to socialization classes offered by most of the large pet products stores such as Petco or PetsMart. You can also have your dog assessed by an animal behaviorist to determine the kind of aggressive behavior your dog is manifesting.

If, after consulting with a behaviorist and participating in obedience and socialization classes, your dog’s behavior is still worrisome, do your best to ensure he knows the basic obedience commands and keep him away from and out of contact with new people. He may simply be incapable of healthily adjusting to strangers. Just love and accept him as he is. Keep him in a room or place where he feels safe and happy when you have visitors. It simply isn’t worth the anguish of having him frighten or hurt another animal or person.

Do you have a question for Dr. Diane? We’re proud to say she’ll be providing expert tips here on DogTipper so please send in your questions on our Ask Dr. Diane contact form! Dr. Pomerance is an animal behavior specialist and an expert on topics such as deciding which puppy is best for your family, how to pick out a rescue, and on healing from the loss of a pet.

For More Information on Dr. Pomerance:

visit www.animalcompanionsandtheirpeople.com
follow twitter.com/dianepomerance
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Ask the Dog Trainer: My Puppy Bites My Feet!

Paris and John — Fri, 16 Jul 2010 02:33:44 +0000

Do you have a question about training your dog? In our “Ask the Dog Trainer” column, expert trainer Colleen Safford answers reader questions about all aspects of dog training. Colleen is the founder of New York Walk & Train, named “Best of NY” by New York Magazine.

My 1-year-old Pomeranian likes to bite my feet as I walk. He’s just playing but it is annoying and it hurts. How can I make him stop?

That was an easy visual to create. A little Pom doing the happy dance; barking, play growling and engaging a mock battle with those socks and feet. While admittedly entertaining to envision, “OUCH” for the unwilling participant.

Your Pom needs an understanding of appropriate play behavior. I recently answered a question about a Boston Terrier puppy nibbler and the answer is very similar.

This is both play and attention seeking behavior. A few pointers to add onto the answer here:

Stop your Pom before he starts! – The key to modern dog training is preventing undesired behaviors from being practiced while teaching our dogs what we expect of them in specific situations. So, you need to be a step ahead of your Pom (not physically, but mentally). You now likely can predict when this behavior is going to happen and or see the wheels start spinning in your little nutter. This is a good thing and something to use to your advantage.
Train or ask for a replacement behavior – Think about what you’d like your dog to be doing instead. I’d say trotting nicely next to you, offering a sit or engaging with legal chew toys. Again, before your dog launches his mock attack on your feet, ask that he offer a nice sit and reinforce the behavior lavishly. Every few steps, walk, request a sit and reward. Your dog will soon learn that looking up at you and waiting for your request pays off!
Buy your dog appropriate play outlets and offer those to him BEFORE he starts seam ripping your socks. Meaning, when you get up to walk, toss a toy for him to carry. When he chases and grabs it; praise him with “good toy” and even tug a bit on it with him.

Are you getting the theme here? PREVENT the behavior by predicting it and teach your pup new and legal behaviors!

Asking Pet Supply Stores for Free Samples

Paris and John — Thu, 15 Jul 2010 02:16:46 +0000

As the saying goes, “You are what you eat”…and that includes dogs. Feeding your dog the best food you can buy isn’t just a treat for your dog, but it’s also a good investment in his health.

Premium dog foods cost more but the quality you’re getting can really tilt the financial scales. Because the food is of higher quality, you don’t have to feed your dog as much food at the same meal so the cost can be closer to mass-market kibble than you might think.

Before you pick up that 20-pound sack of premium dog food, though, ask if the store has free samples. Many of the premium dog food manufacturers provide samples to pet supply stores, free for the asking. Find out which food your dog likes best before you invest in that big sack. Dog shows and expos are another good source for free samples and sometimes you’ll find free offers on the manufacturer’s website, too. (And it never hurts to ask!)

Ask Dr. Diane: Introducing Dogs at the Shelter

Paris and John — Mon, 12 Jul 2010 20:28:02 +0000

My sister wants to adopt a second dog this summer and the shelter has asked that she bring her dog to meet the new dog at the shelter before adopting. How should she introduce the two dogs at the shelter?

It is an excellent idea for your sister to bring the dog she has to the shelter to meet the dog’s potential brother or sister. The shelter workers or volunteers can advise your sister as to when and where she can bring them together. Your sister should make an appointment with the shelter before actually bringing her dog and arrange to meet in a neutral visiting area.

There are so many animals on site who are either waiting to be adopted or being adopted. There is almost always commotion on site. ALWAYS keep your dog (with proper identification tags) on a leash when introducing her to another animal. There will probably be a special meeting room and/or a yard where your sister can introduce the dogs to one another and ascertain how well they may get along.

Making several trips to the shelter is an even better idea, so that the two strangers can actually get more familiar with one another. If there is loud barking, snarling, lunging or snapping on the part of one of the dogs, I would not view the potential adoption favorably. If they sniff one another and do not display any aggressive behavior, if their tails are up and their eyes happy, it could be a good match!

For More Information on Dr. Pomerance:

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Ask Dr. Diane: Getting a Puppy For My Older Dog

Paris and John — Fri, 09 Jul 2010 19:12:04 +0000

My dachshund is nearly 15 years old. I know he may not be with us long (although he is active for his age) and I don’t want to be dog-less. I would like to get another dog while he is still here so he can enjoy the dog and so our new dog will have known him. Is this a good idea?

I have four dachshunds of my own, and love sharing my life with these beautiful, intelligent creatures.

So long as you do not bring a bouncing, noisy, demanding and hyperactive puppy home, I think it’s a good idea for you to adopt another dog while your 15-year-old is sill alive. Find an adult dog of the opposite sex (in other words, a female who has been spayed) and is healthy but not rambunctious. Make sure your dachshund meets the potential adoptee on neutral turf and that he likes and gets along with her.

Do not make a big fuss over the new dog’s presence in your home or make the older dog feel threatened, intimidated or jealous by the new one. Through your words and body language, reassure your 15-year-old that he is deeply loved, respected, cherished and appreciated– that he is not being replaced – and that the new dog is intended to be a new friend and companion for both of you. I have often seen an older dog who really “perks up” with the presence of a new, non-threatening, friendly and affectionate animal companion. I wish you and your dachshund the very best!!!

For More Information on Dr. Pomerance:

visit www.animalcompanionsandtheirpeople.com
follow twitter.com/dianepomerance
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Ask the Dog Trainer: Settling in a New Puppy

Paris and John — Wed, 07 Jul 2010 16:19:17 +0000

In our “Ask the Dog Trainer” column, expert trainer Colleen Safford answers reader questions about all aspects of dog training. Colleen is the founder of New York Walk & Train, named “Best of NY” by New York Magazine.

My grandson just got an adorable new puppy. Old pet has been barking nonstop since new puppy came into house. Family read all the hints about introducing on neutral ground with leashes, but old dog continues to viciously attack new puppy, and barked all night. They are ready to give new puppy away already. Situation seems undoable. Please help. Boy needs the new puppy. Thanks.

To me, it sounds like your particular situation warrants the help of a trainer. A good place to research a humane trainer is www.apdt.org.

First impressions are important. Making sure to take this process slowly is very important. Often people will start on the track to slow acclimation, human haste takes over and we push it too fast.

Unless the dogs are clearly loosey-goosey waggy tails, it’s important to take precautions when introducing new housemates. This is particularly the case when introducing a new dog to a long time single resident.

I do not know the history of the older dog, but if he has not been previously socialized with other dogs, or has shown lifelong signs of aggression towards other dogs, it will make this transition significantly more difficult. In such cases a decision would need to be made on whether it makes sound sense to keep the animals together under one roof. If you opt to do so, creating a safe management system for them would be imperative.

I am not sure exactly what you mean, but I am most concerned by you saying that the older dog is viciously attacking the younger pup. If the older dog is baring teeth, barking and lunging towards or causing injury to the younger pup – you must stop the interactions until you can work with a professional.

A trainer can better access the dog to dog language that is being exchanged and can help assess the potential for danger to both humans and animals in the situation.

Your situation is a bit more complicated, but some general rules of thumb for new dog introductions:

Introduce dogs on neutral territory.
Give each dog an opportunity to get some quality heart pumping exercise before the introduction.
Keep a good HEALTHY distance between the dogs to begin. Walk each dog on leash at a distance of 15-20 feet apart to begin. If the dogs seem mildly interested and calm, you can slowly cut down on the distance between the dogs, but for this first time keep a healthy distance and do not overwhelm them. Each time the dogs look at the other and remain calm, praise and reinforce the behavior (with a food reward). Use a happy, “good boy,” voice.
Allow the dogs to sniff each other through a barrier such as a fence. While barriers are NOT a good long term solution, they can provide for brief safety insurance for first time introductions (though should NOT be used if either dog is already a fence barker).
If the dogs seem comfortable while walking together and meeting through a fence without becoming stiff or displaying prolonged growling and barking at one another, you can progress to a nose to tushie introduction. J This is an appropriate dog greeting. Never pull on the leash or apply pressure to a dog’s collar while he is greeting/sniffing a new friend. This can remind the dog he has no “flight” option. Always be sure leash is slack.
Keep the dogs on leash (even if you drop them) for their first few socialization sessions. This will give you more control if necessary in breaking up any tussles and squabbles.
Do keep in mind that dogs CAN growl or snark at one another from time to time. Do your best to allow them to speak their own language within reason (and as long as no one is getting injured).
NEVER punish your dog for growling, barking or even fighting with another dog. Your dog is simply anxious, and stressed. He needs to work on his dog skills. Punishment will only reinforce to him that life is NOT nice when in presence of other dogs.

Remembering That Nobody’s Perfect

Paris and John — Mon, 05 Jul 2010 15:53:18 +0000

A lot of shelter dogs have been dealt a tough hand in life and, as they’re sitting in their kennels looking for a new home, may not always be in tip top shape. However, that doesn’t mean that will always be the case…it just means you might have to take a little extra time with that dog to help him or her get over a few physical (or emotional) bumps in the road.

Take, for example, our dog Irie (above, waiting to leave the shelter). She was six months old when we adopted her and we immediately fell in love with her happy yet somewhat shy demeanor. Before we left the shelter, though, we’d already noticed that strange bumpy red rash on the stomach of this skinny young dog…

We adopted her on Saturday and took her to our vet on Monday. She confirmed what we’d guessed: yes, Irie was a little underweight and, yes, Irie had demodectic mange. The Demodex mites that transfer from a mother dog to her pups when nursing are usually suppressed by the dog’s immune system but stress (as in becoming a stray, getting picked up on the streets, then spending a month at a shelter as in Irie’s case) can cause a flare up.

Our vet started Irie on a series of dips and within a few months the mange was all cleared up. (As for the underweight part, that took care of itself very fast and there’s been no looking back since then…now we have to watch Irie’s weight and often have to switch to weight control food!)

Many shelters offer a free month of insurance with adoption; Irie had ShelterCare Pet Insurance. We received the first month free and paid for subsequent months; with the coverage, we were out very little out of pocket expense on her dips and treatment. When you’re adopting, be sure to ask if the fee/donation includes any insurance and take the paperwork with you on that first vet visit!

Don’t let small setbacks–many of which can be easily solved–stand in the way of adopting your new best friend!